Halo!
e Bon nochi!
I
know it has been a while since I've last blogged, so this is gonna be a long
one...
Over
the past few weeks I've been busy with a number of things: eating Iguana stew,
experiencing Carnaval, jetting around on mopeds, camping on the beach, biking
44 km, and swimming with 2 manta rays... just to name a few. This may explain
my slack in blogging. So here goes...
Iguana
stew: tastes just like chicken! It really does! We had it homemade by Gibi, the
local man who makes us dinner. It is rather bony, as you can imagine, and there
were some unidentifiable parts that I avoided, but for the most part the meat
is tender and flaky and tastes like whatever it is cooked in. Plus, it's one of
the only meats that is actually sustainable (and local) on the island since
it's nearly impossible to raise any livestock here.
On to
the next adventure...
Carnaval:
We had a week off of school (from Feb 18-26) for "carnaval vacation,"
a much needed break from all the heavy diving and hammocking I've been doing.
Thank god for that! In my opinion, we spent our time off wisely. For example,
on Fat Tuesday we drank for 14 hours. I know, I know, it sounds like it's all
fun-and-games, but drinking all day in the heat of the Caribbean sun is no easy
task. Don't worry, almost everyone remembered sunscreen. There really was more
to Carnaval than just plain partying. There were several parades throughout the
week, and on Tuesday night we joined in and danced through Kralendijk with one
of the floats. Also on Tuesday night we got to experience a yearly Carnaval
tradition: the burning of the "MoMo." Apparently on some islands the
"MoMo" represents the "white man," however its significance
to Bonaire wasn't exactly clear (this is a common theme here. I've just stopped
asking). The parade ended at the stadium, where there were rides set up, music
blasting and massive celebrations and dancing. The setting closely resembled
the Tech Fair, except for the public intoxication and the giant statue of a
king that was burning and spewing out fireworks way too close for comfort. It
was an incredible cultural experience, to say the least, and I'm glad I was
able to participate in something so obscure (and fun).
Fat Tuesday festivities
Burning MoMo
Part of the parade
I
spent the latter part of Carnaval break well too, but in more constructive and
perhaps healthier ways. On Thursday, Devon and I rented a moped for 3 days.
Mopeds are common and practical commodities on the island, and it's a great way
to see all of Bonaire in a short amount of time. After the initial ride, Devon
really got the hang of driving the scooter, and I almost got the hang of not
being terrified on the back. We encountered minor obstacles such as dirt cliffs
and donkey crossings, but the moped (deemed 'Betty') was returned without a
scratch 3 days later! During our time with Betty, we checked out the North end
of the island and went "cliff jumping" (the boys jumped 50 feet...
I'm working my way up from 10). We also checked out the South end of the island
and hung out at Lac Bay, a beautiful beach with the best windsurfing conditions
in the world. Moped-ing is a surprisingly tiring activity, but not nearly as
tiring as our next adventure.
Devon and I with Betty the moped
Saturday,
when we reluctantly returned Betty the moped, we had already scoped out some
good campsites about 5 miles north of Kralendijk. Devon, Max, and I rented
bicycles, grabbed our hammocks, some food, and our snorkel gear, and headed to
Tolo dive site for the night. Of course we picked one of the only rainy nights
thus far, but it ended up making the expedition even crazier. After debating
whether the trees at the campsite were poisonous or not, we hung our hammocks
from them and built a fire. Devon now has a rash covering his whole body.
Sleeping in the hammocks was okay, but I awoke several times throughout the
night to the sound of near-by goats. The next morning we all woke up with the
sun and enjoyed the comfort of our campsite for a few hours. Then, we packed
our bags, strapped our fins to the back of the bikes, and set out on the
journey that Max had planned out for us.
Our campsite-- red hammock is mine!
The idea was to take the bike trail
indicated on our map to the Northern-most dive site before reaching the
protected no-dive zone. Once there, we'd snorkel for a while, have lunch, and
slowly make our way back to Kralendijk, stopping to snorkel at various other
sites. It seemed easy enough and didn't look too far on the map. After an hour
of biking up and down dirt/rocky hills, I realized that this was an undertaking
of far greater magnitude than any of us had anticipated. Max kept assuring us
that our destination, Playa Frans, was only right around the big mountain. At
this point we were too far in to back out, and after making several wrong
turns/detours, we made it to Playa Frans in just under 3 hours. Whoever claimed
that to be a bike trail is either in incredible shape or seriously, seriously
deranged. We were the only bikers on the whole trail and the few other people
we encountered were all in trucks. Playa Frans was like an oasis. There were a
few old houses that appeared to be abandoned aside from a greenhouse and some
clothes left out on the line. We were greeted by dogs and a flock of chickens,
but for the most part we were the only people around. The snorkeling
immediately made the treacherous bike ride totally worth it. The structure of
the reef is completely different than anything I'd seen before. There was a
forest of Elk horn coral so shallow that parts of it stuck out of the water.
Almost all the Elk horn coral is destroyed in Bonaire (and other islands) due
to a variety of factors. The reef was so shallow that you had to weave in and
out of it to avoid bumping anything. Since it's so close to the protected area
there were tons of fish, many of which I had never seen before. I spent a lot
of time hanging out with two giant Rainbow Parrotfish, each about 60 pounds. I
had a great time following them around and watching them go about their every
day business on the reef. We spent about 3 hours at Playa Frans and then repacked out bags and started the long journey home.
Needless to say, the trip back over the mountain wasn't nearly as fun as the first time around; however, the view of the open ocean was breathtaking. We stopped to snorkel and relax at an other popular dive site, Karpata. The reef there was also beautiful, with some of the biggest stony and soft corals I've ever seen. The reef at Karpata explains why Bonaire is rated as the best diving in the Caribbean, so you have to see it while it lasts! This coming weekend we plan on diving it. We made it back to the campsite just in time to watch the sunset, and we pedaled home just in time for dinner. It was hands-down the biggest adventure I've ever been on--we covered a total of 44 km-- but I can't say I'd do it again, at least not without a vehicle.
en-route to Playa Frans